The railway line between Ponferrada and Villablino (known as Ponfeblino) was once one of Spain’s most important freight routes for coal transport, especially during the era marked by World War I and energy scarcity. Today, the line lies abandoned, although there is an approved restoration plan scheduled for launch in August 2026. Honestly, looking at the current state of the infrastructure, it’s hard to believe, but considering the original line was built in just ten months, it could be viable, if bureaucracy and indifference allow it.
When I arrived at this spot, I knew nothing about the Ponfeblino. In fact, I had no idea what I was about to find. I was near the Bárcena reservoir, looking for interesting places in the area, when an abandoned bridge near Toreno caught my attention. The access didn’t seem great, but I spotted a gravel track that looked passable… big mistake. Gradually, the road worsened, but once you’ve gone a certain distance, turning back feels like the worse option… another big mistake. The path narrowed, filled with potholes, and the bushes encroached on the way, constantly scraping the car. Eventually, the ruts were so deep that the bottom of the vehicle began to scrape. Honestly, I thought my car was done for, that there was no way I’d get it out. Covered in cold sweat and borderline desperate, I pushed through the uneven terrain, the overgrowth, and all the scrapes.
But it didn’t end there. A bit further on, I came across enormous rocks in the middle of the path. I had to start lifting stones, like a makeshift harrijasotzaile, though with far less grace and a face full of regret. It was, without a doubt, one of the worst driving experiences of my life.
Eventually, the track opened up onto a somewhat decent road, and I reached my destination. Frustrated and not exactly in the mood to take photos, I managed to pull myself together and take in the place. The beauty of the landscape, combined with the charm of the abandoned railway, lifted my spirits, and it turned out to be one of the most incredible mornings I’ve had in recent months. Strangely enough, right next to the track, I came across a burned-out, seemingly abandoned car. It felt oddly fitting after my ordeal. I’m sure there’s quite a story behind it, but I’d rather not know it.
I didn’t miss the chance to photograph it. And even though I took many prettier photos that day, that one best represents the whole experience. A place that, for many reasons, is anything but forgettable.
